A portion of Near Trapps has been closed to climbing MORE INFO >>>
A portion of the Near Trapps has been closed to climbing. This includes land below the cliff to above cliff line and starts approximately at Eenie Meenie and continues south about 200 feet. Climbers are asked to respect the no-trespassing signs and advised to use the access trail marked in orange blazes. This trail starts at the intersection of the Blue trail over the top of the Nears and the first Red trail. Follow the orange blazes east and downhill from this junction to arrive at the far (south) end of the Nears. For more information please view http://www.mohonkpreserve.org/index.php?news
Climb the two cracks to a stance and then go up a low angled dihedral to a ledge. Move right and rappel from a bush. Even if this gets cleaned up it will never be more than a one star route, but 5.7 routes of any quality are in relatively short supply in the 'Gunks, and this does have a few good moves.
Location
Go past Easter Time Too for approximately 250 feet. The trail will start to go down slightly and there will be a large buttress with orange rock and a low angled, right-facing corner. This corner is the start to Animal Farm: Double Quacks is 20-30 back right. Look for the short, parallel, right-leaning cracks. There is a very large dead tree bordering the trail.
This route is very dirty...I was worried about slipping on the loose leaves, lichen, and dirt all over this route. Needs some major gardening. The first few moves are the toughest, but very fun. I highly recommend the link-up with Animal Farm's first pitch...it made the climb a bit more interesting.