A portion of Near Trapps has been closed to climbing MORE INFO >>>
A portion of the Near Trapps has been closed to climbing. This includes land below the cliff to above cliff line and starts approximately at Eenie Meenie and continues south about 200 feet. Climbers are asked to respect the no-trespassing signs and advised to use the access trail marked in orange blazes. This trail starts at the intersection of the Blue trail over the top of the Nears and the first Red trail. Follow the orange blazes east and downhill from this junction to arrive at the far (south) end of the Nears. For more information please view http://www.mohonkpreserve.org/index.php?news
Climb to the ledge that is a short distance up. Move up the face to good holds (crux), then ascend the low-angled slab to a pine tree. This is a bit dirty at the bottom, but the crux moves are interesting - albeit brief - and the slab is easy.
Location
Approximately 75 feet or so left of the Tree-Filled Chimney (which is down and around from the White Pillar), there is a dirty, open book. Just to the left, there is a small ledge a short distance up.with some grass and blueberry bushes on it. There is a short, left-facing corner that starts at the ledge.
Protection
The guidebook mentions that a Ballnut protects the crux. I didn't see a place for this, but I was able to use a #3 HB in a horizontal seam, and it probably would have held a short fall. I didn't find any quick and easy places to put bomb-proof protection.
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