A portion of Near Trapps has been closed to climbing MORE INFO >>>
A portion of the Near Trapps has been closed to climbing. This includes land below the cliff to above cliff line and starts approximately at Eenie Meenie and continues south about 200 feet. Climbers are asked to respect the no-trespassing signs and advised to use the access trail marked in orange blazes. This trail starts at the intersection of the Blue trail over the top of the Nears and the first Red trail. Follow the orange blazes east and downhill from this junction to arrive at the far (south) end of the Nears. For more information please view http://www.mohonkpreserve.org/index.php?news
Climb the crack of Up in Arms for 10-12 feet, then traverse right to the nose of the buttress (crux). Wander up the face above for 40 feet or so to a pine tree anchor. This climb is rated 5.8, but it seemed a bit harder than the other 30 or so 5.8 routes I have climbed in the Nears.
Location
Almost at the end of the Nears, you will see a large block leaning against the cliff; this is the Inside Out block. About 150 feet or so left, you will see a large roof (and there will probably be a lot of fixed gear in the roof) and a large, right-facing corner. Go down around this corner left for 30 feet or so and you will be at the base of a large, left-facing corner and the distinctive, left-leaning crack of Up in Arms.
Protection
Standard 'Gunks rack, nothing very large or very small is needed.