A portion of Near Trapps has been closed to climbing MORE INFO >>>
A portion of the Near Trapps has been closed to climbing. This includes land below the cliff to above cliff line and starts approximately at Eenie Meenie and continues south about 200 feet. Climbers are asked to respect the no-trespassing signs and advised to use the access trail marked in orange blazes. This trail starts at the intersection of the Blue trail over the top of the Nears and the first Red trail. Follow the orange blazes east and downhill from this junction to arrive at the far (south) end of the Nears. For more information please view http://www.mohonkpreserve.org/index.php?news
About 8 feet left of the start to Saving Face, find a very small and not very obvious left-facing flake; it's about 6-8 feet up. Climb the face past this flake to a stance, then make the somewhat precarious move onto a large ledge (crux). From there, go up past a short, right-facing flake to a crack. At the top of the crack, you will see the belay/rappel tree about 20 feet higher. The Near Trapps guide advises climbers to get good protection at the small flake. However, the flake is a bit loose, it expands when it is flexed, and it is not that high; if you fell from the crux, you would hit the ground even if the gear stayed in or the flake didn't rip off. A #4 or #5 RP can be placed higher and it seemed decent enough - but it's no sure bet. Still, it's a very interesting move.
Location
Find the White Chimney, then go back right to Moxie. From there, walk right 35 feet and locate a right-facing corner that leads to a ledge about 20 feet up; that is Saving Face. Saving Grace is 8 feet or so left of that corner.
Protection
Standard 'Gunks rack and some small nuts such as RPs or something similar.
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