A portion of Near Trapps has been closed to climbing MORE INFO >>>
A portion of the Near Trapps has been closed to climbing. This includes land below the cliff to above cliff line and starts approximately at Eenie Meenie and continues south about 200 feet. Climbers are asked to respect the no-trespassing signs and advised to use the access trail marked in orange blazes. This trail starts at the intersection of the Blue trail over the top of the Nears and the first Red trail. Follow the orange blazes east and downhill from this junction to arrive at the far (south) end of the Nears. For more information please view http://www.mohonkpreserve.org/index.php?news
Climb up to the roof and a very short, left-facing corner. Move over the roof (crux) and into the larger left-facing corner system above. Go slightly left to a crack, move past this back into the left-facing corner and go up to a small ledge. Traverse left approximately 15-20 feet and to a pine tree and belay. The crux move is strenuous, and there are several sections of 5.8/5.9 climbing above that offer interesting moves and technical challenges. Many years ago I did the entire route to the top and I remember the last pitch was exposed and exciting. According to the current guidebook, however, the rest of the climb after the first pitch described here is dirty and loose.
Location
Approximately 60 feet left of the large orange corner of Eenie Meenie. Look for an open book with a large tree about 10 feet up; the left face of this open book is low angled and has several obvious cracks. The start of By the Toe is about 20 left of this point.
Protection
A 00 Metolius TCU was very helpful. Otherwise, a standard 'Gunks rack will work fine.
RSS Feed
