A portion of Near Trapps has been closed to climbing MORE INFO >>>
A portion of the Near Trapps has been closed to climbing. This includes land below the cliff to above cliff line and starts approximately at Eenie Meenie and continues south about 200 feet. Climbers are asked to respect the no-trespassing signs and advised to use the access trail marked in orange blazes. This trail starts at the intersection of the Blue trail over the top of the Nears and the first Red trail. Follow the orange blazes east and downhill from this junction to arrive at the far (south) end of the Nears. For more information please view http://www.mohonkpreserve.org/index.php?news
P1: 5.8 G-PG: Climb the open book/flakes/face to a stance below the V-notch in the overhang. Climb past notch (crux), then work your way up past an awkward move to the overhang, move left to a belay stance at a belay/rap-station (60 ft)
P2: 5.10b G: Climb the overhang directly above into the short left-facing corner (crux), exit right onto the face and continue up a bit right to a belay on the ledge below the left-facing corner (60 ft)
P3: 5.9+ PG-PG13: Climb face and corner above to the overhangs. Diagnol steeply up right, then straight to the top (60 ft)
Location
Location: At the base of the open book, immediately left of the prominent nose, 40 ft left of Yellow Ridge, same as Fat Stick.
Protection
Standard rack. Can be done in 1 pitch with double ropes
This is a very nice route, and the best pitch is the last one, do it! With double ropes you can do all 3 in one. 3rd pitch gets R rating in the guide book but is actually safe and overhanging. You wont be disappointed, except maybe by the amount of liken on the assume steep jugs!
I don't understand this route description... I find the crux of the second pitch to be pretty R... Someone correct me if I am wrong, but I remember the gear being somewhat iffy in the roof (shallow/flared large cam?). Even if it was bomber, the crux is pulling into the corner, and if you miss, you are either landing on the low angle slab below or on your belayer.
I also remember the second pitch crux as being committing and nonobvious.
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