A portion of Near Trapps has been closed to climbing MORE INFO >>>
A portion of the Near Trapps has been closed to climbing. This includes land below the cliff to above cliff line and starts approximately at Eenie Meenie and continues south about 200 feet. Climbers are asked to respect the no-trespassing signs and advised to use the access trail marked in orange blazes. This trail starts at the intersection of the Blue trail over the top of the Nears and the first Red trail. Follow the orange blazes east and downhill from this junction to arrive at the far (south) end of the Nears. For more information please view http://www.mohonkpreserve.org/index.php?news
Climb straight up to the thin vertical seam that has two old pitons in it. Climb up the seam (crux), move right and climb an easy roof, then move left to the edge of the face and climb past an overhang to the top, or move around the corner and up an easy face to the top. The crux is not sustained and the holds are positive.
Location
Approximately 125 feet left of Grease Gun Groove, the trail rises a bit and there is a large amphitheater that is bordered on the left by a large corner and on the right by a short buttress with a pine tree on its top. The seam with the pitons is easily seen.
Protection
Very small nuts, e.g., RPs and/or tiny camming units. The pitons don't look very trustworthy.
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