A portion of Near Trapps has been closed to climbing MORE INFO >>>
A portion of the Near Trapps has been closed to climbing. This includes land below the cliff to above cliff line and starts approximately at Eenie Meenie and continues south about 200 feet. Climbers are asked to respect the no-trespassing signs and advised to use the access trail marked in orange blazes. This trail starts at the intersection of the Blue trail over the top of the Nears and the first Red trail. Follow the orange blazes east and downhill from this junction to arrive at the far (south) end of the Nears. For more information please view http://www.mohonkpreserve.org/index.php?news
Climb the right-facing corner to its top and a large, dirt covered ledge. Once on the ledge, you will see an obvious, right-facing flake within arms reach that leads to a short seam; Saving Face climbs the face 6 feet or so right of that flake to a thin horizontal and a very small, short, and indistinct left-facing corner. Move up past this corner (crux) then go straight to the pine tree. This route offers a short crux, nice moves, and decent protection. It can be a good way to end the day.
Location
The easiest way to find this route - assuming you don't know this section of the Nears - would be to go to the White Pillar, then walk right past Moxie until you see a right-facing corner that leads up to an arching flake. That is the start.
Protection
Several small cams (e.g., smallest Metolius TCU) are needed.
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