Mac-Reppy 

FA:  Jim McCarthy and John Reppy Type:  Trad Consensus:  5.11a [details] Views: 119 page views Submitted By: Dana on Mar 30, 2009 Add Photo  Add Comment

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A portion of Near Trapps has been closed to climbing MORE INFO >>> A portion of the Near Trapps has been closed to climbing. This includes land below the cliff to above cliff line and starts approximately at Eenie Meenie and continues south about 200 feet. Climbers are asked to respect the no-trespassing signs and advised to use the access trail marked in orange blazes. This trail starts at the intersection of the Blue trail over the top of the Nears and the first Red trail. Follow the orange blazes east and downhill from this junction to arrive at the far (south) end of the Nears. For more information please view http://www.mohonkpreserve.org/index.php?news Keeping climbing areas open and conserving the climbing environment

Description 

Locate the large Inside Out block that leans against the cliff and forms an obvious chimney. To the right of that is the left facing corner system of Main Line. Between those two landmarks, you will see left-facing corner and a crack that lead up to a roof that is often adorned with a clump of slings. Climb the corner and crack, go over the roof (crux) into another left-facing corner, then belay or go through the roof and corner system immediately above to the top.
The crux on this is brief (2-3 moves) and committing, but what 'Gunks roof isn't committing? Being tall would be very helpful, but I'm 5'10" and I was able to reach the essential holds. Ratings are certainly subjective, but this seemed much easier than 5.11c. Who can say?

Location 

See the description.

Protection 

Standard 'Gunks rack: nothing very large or very small is needed.