Up in Arms 

FA:  Frank Valendo and Maury Jaffe Type:  Trad Consensus:  5.9 [details] Length:  2 pitches Views: 65 page views Submitted By: Dana on Mar 30, 2009 Add Photo  Add Comment

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A portion of Near Trapps has been closed to climbing MORE INFO >>> A portion of the Near Trapps has been closed to climbing. This includes land below the cliff to above cliff line and starts approximately at Eenie Meenie and continues south about 200 feet. Climbers are asked to respect the no-trespassing signs and advised to use the access trail marked in orange blazes. This trail starts at the intersection of the Blue trail over the top of the Nears and the first Red trail. Follow the orange blazes east and downhill from this junction to arrive at the far (south) end of the Nears. For more information please view http://www.mohonkpreserve.org/index.php?news Keeping climbing areas open and conserving the climbing environment

Description 

The first pitch is a strenuous lead with lots of good gear available. The new New Trapps guide suggests using hand protection, but I climbed the crack and used, at the most, one or two jams, so it can be done without tape. This pitch, and the second as well, are well worth the walk.

Location 

Find the Inside Out block - the large block leaning against the cliff - then keep walking for about 150 until you see a large, right-facing corner capped by a big roof. About 40 left of that you will see a large, left-facing corner and Up in Arms is the diagonaling crack on the face of that corner.

Protection 

You don't need any very large (e.g., # 4 Camalot) or very small gear.