To Be Or Not To Be 

FA:  Type:  Trad Consensus:  5.11d [details] Length:  80 feet Views: 152 page views Submitted By: Chris Duca on Mar 18, 2009 Add Photo  Add Comment

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A portion of Near Trapps has been closed to climbing MORE INFO >>> A portion of the Near Trapps has been closed to climbing. This includes land below the cliff to above cliff line and starts approximately at Eenie Meenie and continues south about 200 feet. Climbers are asked to respect the no-trespassing signs and advised to use the access trail marked in orange blazes. This trail starts at the intersection of the Blue trail over the top of the Nears and the first Red trail. Follow the orange blazes east and downhill from this junction to arrive at the far (south) end of the Nears. For more information please view http://www.mohonkpreserve.org/index.php?news Keeping climbing areas open and conserving the climbing environment

Description 

A fantastic face climb that keeps comin' at ya!

Lock-off moves on razor edges get you off the ground, after which one can expect technical and demanding climbing all the way to the anchor. This route demands stamina, fingers of steel and a penchant for cryptic sequences.

Location 

Located 50 feet left of the Birdcage corner on the face with the obvious face hold down low. Uses the same anchor as Farewell to Arms.

Protection 

(I've only TRed the route, however, if one wants to embark on the lead, expect hard climbing above wicked small gear.)