Spinal Traction 

FA:  Type:  Aid Consensus:  5.6 C2 [details] Length:  1 pitch, 120 feet Season:  Anytime Views: 99 page views Submitted By: Drewsef on Feb 21, 2009 Add Photo  Add Comment

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A portion of Near Trapps has been closed to climbing MORE INFO >>> A portion of the Near Trapps has been closed to climbing. This includes land below the cliff to above cliff line and starts approximately at Eenie Meenie and continues south about 200 feet. Climbers are asked to respect the no-trespassing signs and advised to use the access trail marked in orange blazes. This trail starts at the intersection of the Blue trail over the top of the Nears and the first Red trail. Follow the orange blazes east and downhill from this junction to arrive at the far (south) end of the Nears. For more information please view http://www.mohonkpreserve.org/index.php?news Keeping climbing areas open and conserving the climbing environment

Description 

Spinal Traction is one of the last routes in the Nears, making it a sweet spot to hang around for an hour or two escaping the crowds, dogs and spray. Locate the crack in the roof and climb up to where it meets the back wall (5.6). Aid out the crack, looking for unique nut placements in the good rock and the occasional micro cam or cam hook. As you near the lip, traverse slightly right as the rock deteriorates slightly (but no worries) and then up the face 20 feet to the pines on occasionally funky placements.
I did this solo lots o' years ago and had a blast but coming around the lip was a little heady.
If you're soloing, you'll have to build your anchor somewhat lower than the start.

Location 

Keep walking all the way to where the Nears shorten in size. Probably 20 minutes, maybe longer if you're soloing and are the lone humper. Find a great roof that is framed on the left by a right-facing corner - the roof is about 30 feet off the deck. Look for the thin crack that starts in the left rear of the roof and diagonals out and right (you'll be grinnin' when you see the line!). Best to lead on one line and trail a second to rap with because the route turns the lip and would be bad form to lower with. Find the pines above and make the short rap from there (may or may not be slings here, be prepared to fix tat or say bye-bye to leavers if needed!).

Protection 

Lots of medium nuts! Plenty of small and large as well, might throw in a few RP's. Tiny and small cams. Cam hooks are nice and a big hook for the face in case that's your flavor. If you're soloing you might want a range of cam sizes to build your anchor down low from the start...then again it could be a nest of small stuff too, depending on how spicy you like it.