A portion of Near Trapps has been closed to climbing MORE INFO >>>
A portion of the Near Trapps has been closed to climbing. This includes land below the cliff to above cliff line and starts approximately at Eenie Meenie and continues south about 200 feet. Climbers are asked to respect the no-trespassing signs and advised to use the access trail marked in orange blazes. This trail starts at the intersection of the Blue trail over the top of the Nears and the first Red trail. Follow the orange blazes east and downhill from this junction to arrive at the far (south) end of the Nears. For more information please view http://www.mohonkpreserve.org/index.php?news
The Gunks are not known for steep cracks, but there are some... Start in the chimney of White Pillar and move out to the obvious crack when you can. If you stem high enough you can start with hand jams, if you move out low, it's fingers. Or you can avoid the chimney altogether for harder variations.
Location
Just follow the base of the cliff till you see it. It's the crack on the left wall of a giant right facing corner. The chimney is White Pillar, and on the main face, to the right, is Honky Tonk Woman (recognized by a bolt).
Protection
Well protected with a standard rack. Medium cams and nuts. There is a sling anchor at the top. Easy to top rope as well (see photo), but no reason not to lead.
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