A portion of Near Trapps has been closed to climbing MORE INFO >>>
A portion of the Near Trapps has been closed to climbing. This includes land below the cliff to above cliff line and starts approximately at Eenie Meenie and continues south about 200 feet. Climbers are asked to respect the no-trespassing signs and advised to use the access trail marked in orange blazes. This trail starts at the intersection of the Blue trail over the top of the Nears and the first Red trail. Follow the orange blazes east and downhill from this junction to arrive at the far (south) end of the Nears. For more information please view http://www.mohonkpreserve.org/index.php?news
BETA PHOTO: Looking down from midway up pitch two.
Description
Pitch 1: Climb up to small overhang and move around left (awkward) or climb slab on left up to here (less protected). Continue up into a small left facing corner. When the corner becomes right facing move right to a crack (crux) and cruise up into an awesome open book with small ledge.
Pitch 2: Climb the cracks in the right wall. Step right then back left and up to move overhangs. Then traverse way right and follow dirty corner to the top. This pitch is only 5.5 but very exciting. There is a lot of traversing, so try to avoid placing too much gear and use long slings.
Location
Starts about 20 feet right of Fat City and 40 feet right of Gelsa. No anchors, but you can rap from the tree above Alphonse or take the short walk off to the right.