A portion of Near Trapps has been closed to climbing MORE INFO >>>
A portion of the Near Trapps has been closed to climbing. This includes land below the cliff to above cliff line and starts approximately at Eenie Meenie and continues south about 200 feet. Climbers are asked to respect the no-trespassing signs and advised to use the access trail marked in orange blazes. This trail starts at the intersection of the Blue trail over the top of the Nears and the first Red trail. Follow the orange blazes east and downhill from this junction to arrive at the far (south) end of the Nears. For more information please view http://www.mohonkpreserve.org/index.php?news
A fun climb that follows a right-leaning crack on the side of a massive boulder. Step up onto the medium-sized boulders on the right and step left into the crack. Follow the crack to the easier climbing on the right-face above the bush.
For easier climbing, go around the bush to the left. For harder climbing, climb through the bush. Going through the bush should still be 5.8.
Location
Near the end of the Near Trapps, come to a large, right-facing corner that is actually a massive boulder leaning against the cliff (the entire route is on the right side of the boulder). Look for a crack fading diagonally up to the right in line with the leaning direction of the boulder. The crack actually starts in the roof that is about seven feet off the ground. There is a medium-sized boulder to the right of the crack, and the bottom of this boulder is about the same height as the top of the lower roof. If you look up, you should see a large roof well above the top of the boulder. About mid-way up the climb, on the left near the arrete, is a small bush.
I was so pumped when I did this that I don't remember how nice it was. My partner, who led it, had a lot of fun all the way up. She climbed through the bush and I stepped left around it.
This is route protects easily and well, the moves are interesting, and if you step left to the face at the obvious break near the dead bush, it is 5.7. It is well worth doing if you are in the area. We just put a new red sling on the belay tree a week ago.
This route is G all the way up. It's also pretty easy for 5.8. It's a very nice route, and often overlooked (often hidden by the tree at its base, actually).
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