A portion of Near Trapps has been closed to climbing MORE INFO >>>
A portion of the Near Trapps has been closed to climbing. This includes land below the cliff to above cliff line and starts approximately at Eenie Meenie and continues south about 200 feet. Climbers are asked to respect the no-trespassing signs and advised to use the access trail marked in orange blazes. This trail starts at the intersection of the Blue trail over the top of the Nears and the first Red trail. Follow the orange blazes east and downhill from this junction to arrive at the far (south) end of the Nears. For more information please view http://www.mohonkpreserve.org/index.php?news
A sustained and pumpy 5.9 with a nice crux traverse at the beginning and solid dynamic moves on the face near the top.
Start at the tree and climb to the right of the traverse under the nose. Step up into the traverse and head left. Exit the traverse and head up the corner. At the top of the corner, step right onto the face head straight up.
The easier variation finishes straight up through the lichen. The harder variation traverses right again at the top.
Location
Nearly all the way at the end of the Near Trapps. If facing the large roof that is a A3 with fixed gear, to the right is a prow that is called Muriel's Nose (5.10a). To the right of the nose is a gully with a tree and a five-foot tall block behind the tree. You should see the traverse roof that is the bottom of the prow slightly to your left if standing at the tree.
Took my first 20-foot whipper at the top here. All the gear held just fine.
My recommendation is to not do the hand traverse to the right at the top, and to instead go up through the lichen straight above from where you step out from the corner and onto the face. The hand traverse is juggy and well-protected, but above the jugs is little in the way of holds (so protect the upper traverse before standing up).
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