A portion of Near Trapps has been closed to climbing MORE INFO >>>
A portion of the Near Trapps has been closed to climbing. This includes land below the cliff to above cliff line and starts approximately at Eenie Meenie and continues south about 200 feet. Climbers are asked to respect the no-trespassing signs and advised to use the access trail marked in orange blazes. This trail starts at the intersection of the Blue trail over the top of the Nears and the first Red trail. Follow the orange blazes east and downhill from this junction to arrive at the far (south) end of the Nears. For more information please view http://www.mohonkpreserve.org/index.php?news
P1 - Start mid-way up the hill with the arrete to your left. Climb the thin face (5.7) to where the route obviously then goes left. Step around the arrete and head up to the tree anchor.
P2 - Step left over the void to the right face of the cliff. Traverse right along the face and head up the notch (crux) with good feet and well-placed jugs. Exit the top at the left.
Location
Nearly all the way to the end of the Near Trapps. This route starts on the side of a massive boulder that is leaning against the cliff. It is near a 5.6 A3 roof with fixed gear.
Protection
Trad - well protected. Gear Anchor at the top. Walk-off descent unless you want to use the current dead tree rap anchor.
An absolutely great climb. The first pitch is more 5.7, and the second looks harder than it is. But everything is there, even in the intimidating notch. Definitely well recommended.
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