Going over the ceiling on Birdcage. The last pro h...
Description
Bird Cage is a great climb on a great section of the cliff. It takes the most central, obvious line in the Birdland area -- which is identified by a huge left-facing corner. The face that makes up the right side of this dihedral is Birdland, the corner itself is Bird Cage.
P1: Ascend this corner at challenging 5.8. Once you get to the roof, place pro (usually a fixed wire here), traverse out right, and get horizontal. A long reach off an undercling/pinch to a jug will get you through it. Rap from a fixed anchor above.
When I led this route a year or two ago, there was no good anchor above the roof to rappel from. Recently, I led up the corner and traversed right to the Birdland anchor, skipping the dramatic roof moves. This was a really good pitch at about 5.9+ and allows for an easy descent. I think that it would also be possible to continue up the second pitch of Birdland from above the roof.
The Near Trapps
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