Home - Destinations - People - Partners - Forum - Photos - What's New
 ADVANCED
The Near Trapps
Show routes:
Select route...
Alphonse 
Bird Cage 
Birdland 
Broken Sling 
Criss Cross Direct 
Disney Point 
Disneyland 
Eastertime Too 
Far from the Madding Crowd 
Farewell to Arms 
Farewell to Fingers 
Fat City Direct 
Fat Stick 
Gelsa 
Generation Gap 
Grand Central 
Grease Gun Groove 
Hold the Mayo 
Honky Tonk Woman 
Infinite Space 
Inverted Layback 
Layback 
Lean and Mean 
Little White Mushroom 
Loose Goose 
Main Line 
Moxie 
Orc Stone 
Outer Space 
Outsiders 
Punch and Judy 
Roseland 
Scuttlebutt 
Shitface 
Short and Sassy 
Te Dum 
Transcontinental Nailway 
Up Yours 
White Pillar 
Yellow Belly 
Yellow Ridge 
Yum Yum Yab Yum 

Disney Point 

5.10+

   

FA: Kevin Bein, 1978
Type: Trad
Consensus: 5.10+ [details]
Length: 1 pitch, 50 feet
Views: 1,095 page views

Submitted By: Denis O'Connor on Apr 17, 2006


Add Photo  Add Comment 

You and this route  |  Other Opinions (1)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
 Printer Friendly View

Jeff Arliss chalking up for the crux.


Description 

This pitch is short, but action-filled.

Begin in the open book at the beginning of P2 of Disneyland. At the top of the open book, instead of traversing right for Disneyland, head left. Hand traverse out along the huge flake to the point on good holds, then up and slightly left to a not so good hold (crux). From there, step right and climb easier rock to the top.


Location 

The route is best accessed by climbing the first pitch and a half of Disneyland. If that's taken, it is also possible to climb P1 of Te Dum and traverse across to the right underneath the pointed flake.

Descend by walking off to climber's right.


Protection 

Standard rack.



Add Photo Photos of Disney Point
Beginning the hand traverse.  He's smiling now...

Beginning the hand traverse. He's smiling now...

In the middle of the hand traverse.  The blue line to the right is a party on P2 of Disneyland.

In the middle of the hand traverse. The blue line...

Gaining the point.  The crux sloper is the faintly orange-colored angled thing in the upper left corner of the photo.

Gaining the point. The crux sloper is the faintly...

Trying to jam a #1 camalot in to the left of point.

Trying to jam a #1 camalot in to the left of...

Now trying to the right of the point.  Still not fitting.  If it had been happening to me, I would have seen this development as an excellent excuse to reverse a few moves to the last good cam and say "take."

Now trying to the right of the point. Still not f...

But he clipped it anyway.  In the past, he slung the point instead of using a cam, but after watching the sling lift off the point in the middle of the crux, I suggested using a cam instead.  (Don't think I mentioned a particular size.  Oops.)

But he clipped it anyway. In the past, he slung t...

Good and pumped by now, he considers the sloper above.  It's not visible while hanging from the point, but he knows where it is from previous experience.  He also knows why they call it a sloper...

Good and pumped by now, he considers the sloper ab...

Not today.  He prepares to let go.  We've discussed the crappy #1 placement, but he doesn't have a choice now.

Not today. He prepares to let go. We've discusse...

Somehow, the #1 holds.  I'm holding my breath waiting for a delayed pop, but it doesn't come.

Somehow, the #1 holds. I'm holding my breat...

This is how it looked while he was hanging  on it.  He had other gear nearby, so it probably would not have been a disaster if it had popped out.

This is how it looked while he was hanging on it....

A tight shot of the cam while he was hanging on it.  I've seen shakier placements, but never a shakier placement that actually held a fall.  After lowering and traversing back to the belay, Jeff gave the rope a flick and the cam popped out and slid down the rope into his hand.  No cleaning necessary.  Very efficient of him.

A tight shot of the cam while he was hanging on it...

The happy team admiring his handiwork.  The camalot is clipped to Tricia's harness.

The happy team admiring his handiwork. The camalo...


Add Comment Comments on Disney Point
Show which comments
By losbill
Aug 14, 2007

Denis, just found this. What an awesome series of photos! Great stuff! What a great story! You are the best! Thanks for sharing, Bill