Honky Tonk Woman 

FA:  Dick Williams, Dave Loeks, 1971. Type:  Trad Consensus:  5.9 [details] Length:  1 pitch, 80 feet Views: 426 page views Submitted By: John Peterson on Apr 14, 2007 Add Photo  Add Comment

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A portion of Near Trapps has been closed to climbing MORE INFO >>> A portion of the Near Trapps has been closed to climbing. This includes land below the cliff to above cliff line and starts approximately at Eenie Meenie and continues south about 200 feet. Climbers are asked to respect the no-trespassing signs and advised to use the access trail marked in orange blazes. This trail starts at the intersection of the Blue trail over the top of the Nears and the first Red trail. Follow the orange blazes east and downhill from this junction to arrive at the far (south) end of the Nears. For more information please view http://www.mohonkpreserve.org/index.php?news Keeping climbing areas open and conserving the climbing environment

BETA PHOTO: Honky Tonk Woman meanders up this runout face.

Description 

This is an atypical Gunks route - rather than burly overhangs, it features delicate footwork on less-than-vertical rock. The protection rating is debatable since you can't really be sure of the tiny wires that protect the crux. I compensate by putting in lots of them.

The business starts after you clip the bolt -- climb a hard-to-protect groove to easier ground. Above, traverse left to a rap station atop White Pillar. A single rope gets you down.

Location 

Locate this by finding the obvious chimney of White Pillar. The bolt is about 20' up and serves as a way to definitively locate the route. It's about 10 - 15 minutes out from the popular part of the cliff.

Protection 

After clipping the bolt, the route takes mainly small wires. Bring a wide assortment and you'll probably get in enough gear to feel OK at the crux.