Jean Aschenbrenner climbing the airy arete on the ...
Description
A fun route that will test your chimney and layback technique.
Start about 10' left of Inverted Layback at a left-facing chimney/corner with a big chockstone about 15' up. This is about 75' left of Disneyland.
P1: Struggle to the top of the chockstone, climb up to the corner, and layback (what else?) up to a good belay ledge with a fixed anchor (slings and rings). 5.5, 60'.
P2: Climb up right to the airy arete, pass an overhang, and continue to the top. 5.4, 60'.
The climb can be done in one pitch without too much rope drag.
I've found that a #3.5 Camalot (no longer made) or a #4 Camalot is very helpful on the opening moves of the layback section. You can't place it from the good stance below the crux, but you take a step or two up (before being completely committed) and there's a good constriction. My #4 caught a friend's lead fall in that spot.
By saxfiend Administrator From: Atlanta, GA Jul 18, 2008 rating: 5.6
I thoroughly enjoyed the second pitch, excellent exposed climbing with good pro. Consider it a well-deserved reward after the unpleasant grunting that's necessary to get through the first pitch.
The Near Trapps
RSS Feed
