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Inverted Layback 

5.9

   

FA: Dave Craft, Pete Geiser, 1959
Type: Trad
Consensus: 5.9 [details]
Length: 2 pitches, 140 feet
Views: 584 page views

Submitted By: John Peterson on Mar 11, 2006


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pulling the inverted lieback #1


Description 

Unlike most Gunks routes, this one is harder than it looks.

Start on the left wall of the corner immediately left of Te Dum. This is about 65' left of Disneyland.

P1: Climb up a deceptively difficult face with cracks. About 60' up is the crux: a wild undercling right. The only footholds are immediately under the flake, making the move far scarier for tall people. Fortunately the crux is short. Belay at a small stance under a roof after the crux. 5.9, 80'.

P2: Turn the roof on the right and climb easier ground to the top. 5.8, 60'.

Walk off to the right.


Protection 

The crux is protected by either a large cam or a small RP. I used the RP but it looked to be about a #4 Camalot.



Add Photo Photos of Inverted Layback
shot #2

shot #2

shot #3

shot #3

Yahoooo that was awesome! Shot #4

Yahoooo that was awesome! Shot #4

Jeff Arliss approaching the crux.

Jeff Arliss approaching the crux.

In the crux.

In the crux.


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By Francis Baker (fran)
From: Las Vegas,NV
Aug 7, 2006

The crux moves are protected by a fixed pin backed up by a green #0.75 Camalot at your feet. Then there is a small crack on the face under the roof that takes a blue Alien. Look carefully at the photos. Sorry for the poor quality. I did this onsight with at least a dozen people watching. One of the spectators sent me the pics. I think the face moves avoiding the offwidth below are actually the crux. You will scrape the left side of you face doing the liback moves. My glasses still bear the scars!

By Rodrigo Cid
Aug 21, 2006

I think this was my first 5.9 on-sight in the Gunks. What a great route! But of course, I'm only 5'7"....