A portion of Near Trapps has been closed to climbing MORE INFO >>>
A portion of the Near Trapps has been closed to climbing. This includes land below the cliff to above cliff line and starts approximately at Eenie Meenie and continues south about 200 feet. Climbers are asked to respect the no-trespassing signs and advised to use the access trail marked in orange blazes. This trail starts at the intersection of the Blue trail over the top of the Nears and the first Red trail. Follow the orange blazes east and downhill from this junction to arrive at the far (south) end of the Nears. For more information please view http://www.mohonkpreserve.org/index.php?news
P1. Start up a corner located below a pair of jagged corners and a patch of white rock. At the top of the lower corner, diagonal up and right, and climb through the broken rock that forms the 'outside' or 'right' upper corner (the inside corner is Cherry's Climb). Continue around the left side of the white rock to a spacious belay ledge on the right. While it looks somewhat broken, the rock throughout the corner appeared solid, and was some of the best climbing on the route. 130'.
P2. From the belay, continue straight up the face to another larger ledge with a rap station. Continue up from this second ledge to a good stance just below the left side of a large roof. 5.5, 60'.
P3. From the belay, traverse left along the base of the roof to a corner. There is a single bolt that protects the traverse. Turn the corner and work up the V slot, passing a second bolt and a fixed Alien at the top. Follow the line with the least amount of lichen up and left to the top. 5.5, 40'.
Descent: We chose to walk off to the left. There is a tree at the top with a couple of slings, and the rap station on P2. Not sure how long the individual rappels are.
Location
Orc Stone climbs the right side of a large recess or amphitheater not far beyond Yum Yum Yab Yum. The left side of the recess is Gold Rush.
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