A portion of Near Trapps has been closed to climbing MORE INFO >>>
A portion of the Near Trapps has been closed to climbing. This includes land below the cliff to above cliff line and starts approximately at Eenie Meenie and continues south about 200 feet. Climbers are asked to respect the no-trespassing signs and advised to use the access trail marked in orange blazes. This trail starts at the intersection of the Blue trail over the top of the Nears and the first Red trail. Follow the orange blazes east and downhill from this junction to arrive at the far (south) end of the Nears. For more information please view http://www.mohonkpreserve.org/index.php?news
A classis route that begins with a strenuous layback! Start 25' left of Criss, at a 10'-high right-facing corner with a hand crack that goes through the bulging overhang above the corner. This is about 30' right of Broken Sling.
P1: Jam and layback up the crack, then climb straight up past a fixed pin and several small overhangs to a tiny stance and belay. A #.75 Camalot protects the bouldery moves up to the pin. 5.10a, 60'.
P2: Seldom done these days. Move up and left past a small left-facing corner, then up past an overhang to another left-facing corner and a roof. Exit right and continue to the top. 120'.
Did this route Spring '78; led 2nd pitch. I recall a small stopper shortly off the belay, and that was it for next 15 ft or so. The runout's on a beautiful face--a couple 5.9 moves halfway but all nice edging, nothing weird. Keep in balance and think it through. Fond recollection of being confident, focused, moving easily, totally unaware of the unpleasant fall.
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