A portion of Near Trapps has been closed to climbing MORE INFO >>>
A portion of the Near Trapps has been closed to climbing. This includes land below the cliff to above cliff line and starts approximately at Eenie Meenie and continues south about 200 feet. Climbers are asked to respect the no-trespassing signs and advised to use the access trail marked in orange blazes. This trail starts at the intersection of the Blue trail over the top of the Nears and the first Red trail. Follow the orange blazes east and downhill from this junction to arrive at the far (south) end of the Nears. For more information please view http://www.mohonkpreserve.org/index.php?news
This fun TR is located to the right of Roseland, and is directly under the bolt anchors on that climb. Weave back and forth through bulges until you join Roseland at the end of the traverse. The crux is at about 2/3's height at a bulge with a right-leaning seam.
Location
On the face 20' right of Roseland.
Protection
There is very little gear on this face; it is probably best to TR this line from the anchors on Roseland.
Don't waste this onsite opportunity by toproping it because you think it has no gear. This pitch protects reasonably well. The crux is well protected. After that there is a 20' runout on much easier (~5.8) ground. I'd call it PG, not R.
It's a well protected lead, provided that you don't fall. I suppose it is by North Carolina standards, but by Gunks standards, this is definitely a PG/R. The crux has protection but there are substantial parts above and below the crux which are not protected, or are poorly protected.
If the lead climber regularly pulls down hard 11s or 12s it is probably PG/R leaning toward PG. If the lead climber is hit or miss on hard 10s it is PG/R leaning on the R side.
I have to disagree with the last poster. There is enough gear to make this climb more than safe. The face below the crux may seem a bit runout, however it is easy to protect with small wires. If you don't have anything like brassies then you may be in for a nice runout, with them it totally safe. The part above the crux is only runout if you don't look around for gear. There is a very good green alien/blue tcu placement after the crux. The climbing after the crux is also significantly easier than the climbing below. If a climb is R it is R. It doesn't matter how hard you are pulling down. The gear on Shitface in not complicated or difficult to get in. If you get on this expecting gear like Ants Line then you are out of luck, but if you can lead 5.10 then there is no reason to waste this on a TR. If you have the proper gear this is 5.10 PG
I agree with Andy this is a serious lead. As a point of reference Fat City Direct get’s PG13 on this site and is much safer. It’s true that the placement just below the crux is very solid, but both above and below is serious climbing on small gear that needs to be placed just right and is not all that high off the deck. I was glad I did not fall and would only recommended this route to a leader who feels confident at the grade and wants a little spice. In that case it is very nice.
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