A portion of Near Trapps has been closed to climbing MORE INFO >>>
A portion of the Near Trapps has been closed to climbing. This includes land below the cliff to above cliff line and starts approximately at Eenie Meenie and continues south about 200 feet. Climbers are asked to respect the no-trespassing signs and advised to use the access trail marked in orange blazes. This trail starts at the intersection of the Blue trail over the top of the Nears and the first Red trail. Follow the orange blazes east and downhill from this junction to arrive at the far (south) end of the Nears. For more information please view http://www.mohonkpreserve.org/index.php?news
Roseland has one of the best 5.9 pitches in the Gunks. Since there are fixed chains at the end of the first pitch, most climbers rap after the first pitch.
Start about 80' left of Gelsa and 45' right of Transcon at a beautiful corner with an overhang halfway up.
P1: Follow the beautiful right-facing dihedral for 65'. The crux comes as you traverse to the right for 15' to the anchors. 5.9, 90'.
P2: Follow a shallow corner located up and left from the belay. Belay on a ledge. 5.8, 60'.
P3: The final pitch takes a line on the arete to the left of Gelsa. 5.7, 100'.
An alternative and more exciting finish to the first pitch is to go straight up about halfway through the traverse and then make your way right to the chains. In the photo, it goes through the v-notch above the triangular roof which is up and right of the climber.
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