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Alphonse 

5.8

   

FA: Ken Prestrud, Lucien Warner, 1948. FFA: John Turner, 1950s
Type: Trad
Consensus: 5.8 [details]
Length: 2 pitches, 150 feet
Views: 716 page views

Submitted By: Denis O'Connor on Apr 13, 2006


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Tricia Fusco in the middle of P1.


Description 

A very enjoyable 5.8 that gradually builds in difficulty as you move higher. Usually done in 2 pitches; it can be done in one, which allows you to avoid the somewhat awkward belay below the crux notch.

P1: Climb the corner and face to a ledge, then step right and ascend the corner in the larger orange open book. At the top, or slightly below it, traverse left to a notch and belay. (100 feet, 5.6)

P2: Move up right through the notch, then traverse right and up to the finish. (50 feet, 5.8)

There is a rappel station at the top, but it requires two raps with a 60 meter. The walk-off to climber's right is very short and possibly faster.


Location 

The route begins in a left-facing corner 30 feet left of Grand Central.


Protection 

Standard rack.



Add Photo Photos of Alphonse
Nearing the traverse to the left at the top of P1.

Nearing the traverse to the left at the top of P1.

Recon at the beginning of P2.

Recon at the beginning of P2.

Commencing the crux.

Commencing the crux.

She later expressed some displeasure at the fact that I was snapping photos at this point instead of keeping the rope tighter than a  piano wire.

She later expressed some displeasure at the fact t...

It's all over but the feet.

It's all over but the feet.

Here's some of that displeasure I mentioned earlier.

Here's some of that displeasure I mentioned earlie...


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By GMBurns
From: Boston, MA
Aug 4, 2008
rating: 5.8 PG13

One move 5.8 (pulling the roof) that is fairly sustained at 5.7 the rest of the way. Can be climbed in one go with two ropes or long slings.