A portion of Near Trapps has been closed to climbing MORE INFO >>>
A portion of the Near Trapps has been closed to climbing. This includes land below the cliff to above cliff line and starts approximately at Eenie Meenie and continues south about 200 feet. Climbers are asked to respect the no-trespassing signs and advised to use the access trail marked in orange blazes. This trail starts at the intersection of the Blue trail over the top of the Nears and the first Red trail. Follow the orange blazes east and downhill from this junction to arrive at the far (south) end of the Nears. For more information please view http://www.mohonkpreserve.org/index.php?news
A very enjoyable 5.8 that gradually builds in difficulty as you move higher. Usually done in 2 pitches; it can be done in one, which allows you to avoid the somewhat awkward belay below the crux notch.
P1: Climb the corner and face to a ledge, then step right and ascend the corner in the larger orange open book. At the top, or slightly below it, traverse left to a notch and belay. (100 feet, 5.6)
P2: Move up right through the notch, then traverse right and up to the finish. (50 feet, 5.8)
There is a rappel station at the top, but it requires two raps with a 60 meter. The walk-off to climber's right is very short and possibly faster.
Location
The route begins in a left-facing corner 30 feet left of Grand Central.
One of my favorite Gunks routes. Yes, I really climbed it first in April of 1964, and many times since. Delightful slightly overhanging gunksy crux (shown well in the pix), by far the hardest move, is reasonably protected and closer to 5.7 than 5.8 if you move up with reasonable speed.
Please don't use the rappel tree at the top of Alphonse. It still has a bit of green at the top but it is clearly dying. The trunk at the bottom is completely dried out. It is an accident waiting to happen. The walkoff takes only a few minutes.
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