A portion of Near Trapps has been closed to climbing MORE INFO >>>
A portion of the Near Trapps has been closed to climbing. This includes land below the cliff to above cliff line and starts approximately at Eenie Meenie and continues south about 200 feet. Climbers are asked to respect the no-trespassing signs and advised to use the access trail marked in orange blazes. This trail starts at the intersection of the Blue trail over the top of the Nears and the first Red trail. Follow the orange blazes east and downhill from this junction to arrive at the far (south) end of the Nears. For more information please view http://www.mohonkpreserve.org/index.php?news
A high quality route just past Up Yours. I found the cruxes a little harder than the 5.5 guidebook rating but they are short and well protected. Loose rock isn't much of a problem although there is a little in the middle of the route; the cruxes are all clean and solid. Lots of good climbing. Finish with the last pitch of Up Yours / Horney for a more direct line and better climbing.
An obvious crack / corner system leads up the clean rock just left of Up Yours / Elder Cleavage. Do a long pitch up to the GT ledge and then on up.
Repeated Loose Goose recently having first done it several years ago. The few moves at the crack in the LF dihedral 40 feet up seem to be solid 5.6. The hand crack corner up to the big pine tree rap station also seems to be solid 5.6. Both sections have excellent pro. Climbing on P2 and P3 is worthwhile in the 5.4 to 5.5 range.
When I first did the route I moved up and left for P2 and walked left and climbed up the big, dirty ramp/corner/break for P3. It was okay.
The way I did P2 and P3 the other day featured much better climbing. Move straight up from the P1 belay to the GT Ledge for P2 and then up, angling left around the big roofs for P3. Go straight up to the top, with a few demanding moves including a mantle finish. Move right 25 feet and scramble down to rap station ledge for rap. P2 is a bit licheny, P3 is clean. I didn't find loose rock on either pitch. Done this way it is well worth continuing beyond P1.
I will be interested to see Williams' route description and grade in the new Nears guide.
New Williams' guidebook is out. It is excellent with a number of new moderate routes, get it! Williams rates LG as 5.6, two-star, PG rating, route as I described above.
Nothing Loose about the Goose. Good climbing at the grade on clean rock. After first crux you can safely examine the variation on Crack Climb (5.8* G, making the whole climb near 3* quality)...this variation is a great option, with a rest below the tuff stuff and adequate gear throughout (make haste). This option will send you up to the Swiss Air rappel (up and left of route terminus...about 120 feet, one 60m rappel will reach a 3/4th class gully scramble to the bottom of the cliff). Enjoy!
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