A portion of Near Trapps has been closed to climbing MORE INFO >>>
A portion of the Near Trapps has been closed to climbing. This includes land below the cliff to above cliff line and starts approximately at Eenie Meenie and continues south about 200 feet. Climbers are asked to respect the no-trespassing signs and advised to use the access trail marked in orange blazes. This trail starts at the intersection of the Blue trail over the top of the Nears and the first Red trail. Follow the orange blazes east and downhill from this junction to arrive at the far (south) end of the Nears. For more information please view http://www.mohonkpreserve.org/index.php?news
The Williams Wall is the most popular part of the "far Nears" and has started to draw occasional crowds. All of the routes in this area are pretty good - much better than those in the central part of the Nears.
Punch and Judy starts up clean, easier rock just past the steeper part of the face. It can be used to set a TR on the harder routes to the right.
P1: Climb up and then trend right to a belay on the big pine tree of Madding Crowd. You can rap at this point. 5.5, 100'.
P2: This looks improbable but it's not too bad - go right and then up through a steep section. Continue angling up right to the top. With proper care a 5.5 line can be found. Don't expect much chalk to guide you. The photo in Williams is your best bet to stay on route here. 5.5, 100'.
Location
Near the left end of the Williams Wall at the Nears. It's a bit of a hike but not that bad. The obvious landmark to spot on the way over is the White Pillar chimney (a huge, light-colored block leaning against the cliff, with a right-facing corner and chimney). This is about a 15-min. walk from the start of the cliff. The bolt of Honky Tonk Woman is just to the right. Another minute or two brings you to an obvious section of clean rock, similar to Guides Wall in the Trapps. Punch and Judy is the main weakness near the left edge of this wall - about 20' past the obvious line of Far From the Madding Crowd.
The P1 description is not quite correct and a bit vague.
Begin in a slightly vegetated corner at the left end of the Williams' Wall, then immediately step right around the edge onto the nice clean face. Climb up about 12 feet to an obvious small flake/weakness, then climb the nice white face above (crux), Wander up right to a ledge with a pone tree belay/rap, or continue straight up to a nice ledge to build a gear belay for some additional climbing.
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