A portion of Near Trapps has been closed to climbing MORE INFO >>>
A portion of the Near Trapps has been closed to climbing. This includes land below the cliff to above cliff line and starts approximately at Eenie Meenie and continues south about 200 feet. Climbers are asked to respect the no-trespassing signs and advised to use the access trail marked in orange blazes. This trail starts at the intersection of the Blue trail over the top of the Nears and the first Red trail. Follow the orange blazes east and downhill from this junction to arrive at the far (south) end of the Nears. For more information please view http://www.mohonkpreserve.org/index.php?news
Definitely worth doing if all the 7's over in the popular part of the cliff are occupied.
If possible, engage in a dialog with passing climbers:
What route are you on?
Up Yours!
Walk past Birdland to the chossy section of the Nears. You'll pass a small gully system about 200' past Birdland. Another 50' or so takes you to a section of good rock. Elder Cleavage starts up a hard boulder problem to the right and Up Yours starts up a short lieback to the left.
P1: Climb up to the right-slanting layback crack. Climb this and work right to easier ground. Work up to a corner capped by a small overhang which is taken just a bit left (crux). Then right to easy ground and up to a tree with a rap sling. 5.7, 80'.
I first led this as a middling 5.7 leader, and was horrified. Later, realized I was right to be horrified - the first 40' is really quite poorly protected, and you're in & out of groundfall zone for a good bit. The second, pulling the first bulge, is also faced with a big swing (and potentially the ground) - they remove pro, *then* make the move. YMMV.
The upper corner is very nice and 5.7G. It would be worthwhile if you could skip right up to it.
I agree, the first crux protects well for leader, but the second faces a long swing if they come off towards the end of the first crux, or during the traverse afterwards. In an effort to protect the second, I placed a high piece above the slab for the second, and then had to downclimb and move right to get back on route. Since I couldn't place pro until I got above that high piece, I ended up on some 5.4/5 R climbing. It seems that with double ropes you can still place this piece for the second, and also protect yourself for the 5.5 stuff.
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