Grand Central 

FA:  Bonnie Prudden, Hans Kraus, Dick Hirschland, 1947. FFA: Jim McCarthy, 1963 Type:  Trad Consensus:  5.9 [details] Length:  2 pitches, 160 feet Views: 735 page views Submitted By: John Peterson on Mar 11, 2006 Add Photo  Add Comment

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A portion of Near Trapps has been closed to climbing MORE INFO >>> A portion of the Near Trapps has been closed to climbing. This includes land below the cliff to above cliff line and starts approximately at Eenie Meenie and continues south about 200 feet. Climbers are asked to respect the no-trespassing signs and advised to use the access trail marked in orange blazes. This trail starts at the intersection of the Blue trail over the top of the Nears and the first Red trail. Follow the orange blazes east and downhill from this junction to arrive at the far (south) end of the Nears. For more information please view http://www.mohonkpreserve.org/index.php?news Keeping climbing areas open and conserving the climbing environment

Description 

A great climb with lots of variety.

Start about 20' left of Layback, at a clean corner with two cracks.

P1: Climb the easy corner to a roof. Step left around the roof (optional belay), then work right around the nose. Run this out or use lots of runners to avoid rope drag. Above, a thin crack (crux) leads up. The pro is a bit tricky to place. Suddenly a big jug appears and you're up to a belay below the final overhang. 5.9, 120'.

P2: A short pitch through the overhang takes you to the top. 5.8, 40'.

Protection 

Small wires at the crux. Double ropes are useful.