A portion of Near Trapps has been closed to climbing MORE INFO >>>
A portion of the Near Trapps has been closed to climbing. This includes land below the cliff to above cliff line and starts approximately at Eenie Meenie and continues south about 200 feet. Climbers are asked to respect the no-trespassing signs and advised to use the access trail marked in orange blazes. This trail starts at the intersection of the Blue trail over the top of the Nears and the first Red trail. Follow the orange blazes east and downhill from this junction to arrive at the far (south) end of the Nears. For more information please view http://www.mohonkpreserve.org/index.php?news
Unlike most Gunks routes, this one is harder than it looks.
Start on the left wall of the corner immediately left of Te Dum. This is about 65' left of Disneyland.
P1: Climb up a deceptively difficult face with cracks. About 60' up is the crux: a wild undercling right. The only footholds are immediately under the flake, making the move far scarier for tall people. Fortunately the crux is short. Belay at a small stance under a roof after the crux. 5.9, 80'.
P2: Turn the roof on the right and climb easier ground to the top. 5.8, 60'.
Walk off to the right.
Protection
The crux is protected by either a large cam or a small RP. I used the RP but it looked to be about a #4 Camalot.
The crux moves are protected by a fixed pin backed up by a green #0.75 Camalot at your feet. Then there is a small crack on the face under the roof that takes a blue Alien. Look carefully at the photos. Sorry for the poor quality. I did this onsight with at least a dozen people watching. One of the spectators sent me the pics. I think the face moves avoiding the offwidth below are actually the crux. You will scrape the left side of you face doing the liback moves. My glasses still bear the scars!
I think this was my first 5.9 on-sight in the Gunks. What a great route! But of course, I'm only 5'7"....
By Nate Miller From: Baltimore, MD Oct 12, 2009 rating: 5.9
As far as protection right at the crux, I'm not so sure about a #4 protecting as described in the route description. Maybe a #6 would do it. There is a fixed small nut that I backed up with a #0 C3.
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