A portion of Near Trapps has been closed to climbing MORE INFO >>>
A portion of the Near Trapps has been closed to climbing. This includes land below the cliff to above cliff line and starts approximately at Eenie Meenie and continues south about 200 feet. Climbers are asked to respect the no-trespassing signs and advised to use the access trail marked in orange blazes. This trail starts at the intersection of the Blue trail over the top of the Nears and the first Red trail. Follow the orange blazes east and downhill from this junction to arrive at the far (south) end of the Nears. For more information please view http://www.mohonkpreserve.org/index.php?news
A fine route that gets surprisingly little traffic. Not the place for a beginning 5.8 leader.
This is one of the first routes in the Nears. When the trail first hits the rock, look up and locate the huge Kansas City roof. This route starts just a little bit left. The upper part of obvious - a V-shaped corner about 10' high leading to a roof. The start is harder to locate - look for a long, leftward traverse into the V-corner.
P1: To reach this traverse, climb up easily to a stance below a small roof. Clip the pin above, drop in a nut to back it up and then commit to the crux, a traverse up and left just above a small overhang. This traverse is tenuous at best and there's not much beyond the pin to protect you. After finally reaching good holds, drop in a piece for your second and continue to traverse to the corner. Then up and left to an anchor. 5.8 PG, 120'.
You can go up to the trees here but most people rap the anchor.
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