A portion of Near Trapps has been closed to climbing MORE INFO >>>
A portion of the Near Trapps has been closed to climbing. This includes land below the cliff to above cliff line and starts approximately at Eenie Meenie and continues south about 200 feet. Climbers are asked to respect the no-trespassing signs and advised to use the access trail marked in orange blazes. This trail starts at the intersection of the Blue trail over the top of the Nears and the first Red trail. Follow the orange blazes east and downhill from this junction to arrive at the far (south) end of the Nears. For more information please view http://www.mohonkpreserve.org/index.php?news
An excellent 5.6 pitch that marks the left edge of the "classic" area of the Nears. Beyond this the rock quality drops dramatically.
Start about 100' left of Birdland, at a slabby left-facing corner.
P1: Make a tough bouldery move into the corner. Continue up the corner, go right under a roof, and climb a steep wall capped by a small roof (pin) to a tree with a rap anchor. Good climbing all the way up. 5.6, 80'.
There is a second pitch but I've never done it or seen anyone on it.
The second pitch is a safari. I gave it a go one time and found myself pulling on vegetation while my feet were skittering off dirty holds. It's too bad, really, because the rock was not awful, although the moves are not particularly memorable.
There's an interesting roof variation to GGG. The variation can be seen from the ground. About 3/4 the way up to the top, to the left of the regular route, you will see a roof with a crack. Traverse over to the roof and pull it at the crack. This variation is not in my (Swain) guidebook. It is well protected and goes at about 8+.
One word of warning. I told a friend about the variation and he warned me about a possible loose block up there. I don't remember any questionable rock.
There is indeed a loose block above - as in, you're standing just after having pulled - the crux roof. It's fairly loose, but fairly obviously loose. You'll want to place pro to protect follower(s) climbing through the roof, so take care to place it well above the loose block and you'll be fine.
The first pitch is fun, with the crux move right off the ground. The gear is great, the moves even better. I found the second pitch fun as well. It's not too well traveled, so beware of grassy ledges, lichen etc.
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