A portion of Near Trapps has been closed to climbing MORE INFO >>>
A portion of the Near Trapps has been closed to climbing. This includes land below the cliff to above cliff line and starts approximately at Eenie Meenie and continues south about 200 feet. Climbers are asked to respect the no-trespassing signs and advised to use the access trail marked in orange blazes. This trail starts at the intersection of the Blue trail over the top of the Nears and the first Red trail. Follow the orange blazes east and downhill from this junction to arrive at the far (south) end of the Nears. For more information please view http://www.mohonkpreserve.org/index.php?news
The Williams Wall at the far end of the Nears has many fine climbs that would be quite crowded if found nearer to the road. This area is somewhat like the Guides Wall area in the Trapps. It is easily recognized as the clean, appealing slabby area near the end of the cliff.
LWM is at the far end of this pleasant area. It is cleaner than many in the area and avoids the large, slightly loose overhanging section common to other routes around it. The descent to the left is relatively short and easy. There is some loose rock near the top so be careful with beginners. Start at the appealing finger crack instead of the line shown in the guidebooks. A good route for a beginning leader.
This is commonly done in two short pitches.
P1: Climb the crack to a large tree. 5.3, 75'.
P2: Continue up to the roofy area and left to the top. 5.3, 50'.
This is not Little White Mushroom. LWM begins in the corner 15 left left of this crack.
The crack described here has been left out of all recent guidebooks, probably because until about 1992 or so it was extremely dirty. The climb will be included in the soon-to-be-released Williams' guide, though I do not know the real name or FA history.
It is a nice little route though and about 5.3 as described. If you look closely, you can tell it is actually a small fault, not just your normal crack (look for slickensides in the crack).
Can also be used to set up a TR on LP, assiming directionals are placed.
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