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Transcontinental Nailway 

5.10b

   

FA: Joe Fitschen & Art Gran - 1961
FFA: Jim McCarthy - 1965
Type: Trad
Consensus: 5.10b [details]
Length: 1 pitch, 100 feet
Views: 1,113 page views

Submitted By: Josh Janes on Feb 23, 2006


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Classic! 1973 or 74 replacing the pin in the horiz...


Description 

Transcontinental Nailway (AKA Freeway):

Start about 40' left of Roseland at a steep, smooth slab that leads to a roof. Climb this slab and perform an extremely awkward move to get established below the roof (looks much easier than it is & somewhat scary due to marginal pro). Pull the roof, step left, climb a corner to the top.

An excellent, thought-provoking pitch.


Protection 

Standard Rack.



Add Photo Photos of Transcontinental Nailway
Notice the gaiters, blown out armpit, RR's, dangling hammer with rack of pins above, flip-flop stoppers.

Notice the gaiters, blown out armpit, RR's, dangli...

I'm pretty sure this was my high point. See next photo where I'm belaying as Rich Perch is falling.

I'm pretty sure this was my high point. See next p...

Rich Perch falling.

Rich Perch falling.

Rich Perch almost done with the crux. It's still hard though, until you're stood up and have stepped up and right. Rich is a little more advanced than I was with his PA's.

Rich Perch almost done with the crux. It's still h...

Richie R just past the crux.

Richie R just past the crux.


Add Comment Comments on Transcontinental Nailway
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By Paul Crowder
Mar 9, 2006
rating: 5.10b

The vintage photos that are posted on this page as of 3/9/06 are really entertaining. My opinion - although getting past the overhang is reasonably hard, I think that the crux is actually not too far off the ground, where my memory is that you have to do a thin face move in order to make your way up and right to establish a position underneath the overhang. This is a great route.

By Ivan Rezucha
Mar 9, 2006

The move onto the slab on the bottom is only 5.9, but scary, since the gear is mediocre and at your foot as you high step onto the slab using a one fingertip pocket. Someone had a bad accident cratering from this move about a year ago. That one-finger pocket didn't exist originally--there was a pebble where the pocket now is. The pebble loosened over time and eventually fell out or was pulled out (hopefully just with fingers).

A similar thing happened on the ceiling crux. There is now a nice 2 or 3 fingertip slot that you layback to reach the jug. That slot didn't exist originally. My good friend and regular partner Jeff Pofit excavated the debris from the slot in 1974 with his fingers as he was scrabbling for a decent hold.