Home - Destinations - People - Partners - Forum - Photos - What's New
 ADVANCED
The Near Trapps
Show routes:
Select route...
Akidlleati vytoowouldn'tyou 
Alphonse 
Ambien Knights 
As the cliff turns 
Back to the future 
Baskerville Terrace 
Beauty and the Skink 
Bird Cage 
Birdland 
Boston Tree Party 
Broken Sling 
Bush League 
Bush Lite 
By the Toe, direct start 
Catnip 
Cherokee 
Criss Cross Direct 
Day Tripper 
Disney Point 
Disneyland 
Double Quacks 
Eastertime Too 
Elder Cleavage Direct 
Far from the Madding Crowd 
Farewell to Arms 
Fat City Direct 
Fat Stick 
Fat Stick Direct 5.10b 
Fossil Fools 
Gelsa 
Good Friday Climb 
Gouda Climb 
Grand Central 
Grease Gun Groove 
Gunks Burghers 
Halfbeak 
Hang Ten 
Harvest Moon 
Hold the Mayo 
Honky Tonk Woman 
Infinite Space 
Inverted Layback 
Kansas City 
Keystone Kop 
Layback 
Lean and Mean 
Left meets Right 
Like a Box of Chocolates 
Little White Mushroom 
Loose Goose 
Mac-Reppy 
Main Line 
Moxie 
Near Side of Far, The 
One Way or Another 
Orc Stone 
Outer Space 
Outsiders 
Positively 4th Street 
Punch and Judy 
R2-OK? 
Roseland 
Route Awakening 
Saving Face 
Saving Grace 
Scuttlebutt 
Seniors in Motion 
Serfs' Up 
Shadow Nose, The 
Shitface 
Short and Sassy 
Silver Bullet 
Spinal Traction 
Summer Breeze 
Swells Good 
Te Dum 
To Be Or Not To Be 
Transcontinental Nailway 
Up in Arms 
Up Yours 
Void Where Inhibited 
Void Where Prohibited 
Whet Stone 
White Pillar 
Wolf and the Swine 
Yellow Belly 
Yellow Ridge 
You're in the wrong place, my friend. 
Yum Yum Yab Yum 

Transcontinental Nailway 

5.10b

   

FA: Joe Fitschen & Art Gran - 1961
FFA: Jim McCarthy - 1965
Type: Trad
Consensus: 5.10b [details]
Length: 1 pitch, 100 feet
Views: 1,579 page views

Submitted By: Josh Janes on Feb 23, 2006


Add Photo  Add Comment 

You and this route  |  Other Opinions (17)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
 Printer Friendly View

A portion of Near Trapps has been closed to climbing MORE INFO >>>

Classic! 1973 or 74 replacing the pin in the horiz...


Description 

Transcontinental Nailway (AKA Freeway):

Start about 40' left of Roseland at a steep, smooth slab that leads to a roof. Climb this slab and perform an extremely awkward move to get established below the roof (looks much easier than it is & somewhat scary due to marginal pro). Pull the roof, step left, climb a corner to the top.

An excellent, thought-provoking pitch.


Protection 

Standard Rack.



Photos of Transcontinental Nailway Slideshow Add Photo
Notice the gaiters, blown out armpit, RR's, dangling hammer with rack of pins above, flip-flop stoppers.

Notice the gaiters, blown out armpit, RR's, dangli...

I'm pretty sure this was my high point. See next photo where I'm belaying as Rich Perch is falling.

I'm pretty sure this was my high point. See next p...

Rich Perch falling.

Rich Perch falling.

Rich Perch almost done with the crux. It's still hard though, until you're stood up and have stepped up and right. Rich is a little more advanced than I was with his PA's.

Rich Perch almost done with the crux. It's still h...

At the beginning of the difficulties.

At the beginning of the difficulties.


Comments on Transcontinental Nailway Add Comment
Show which comments
By Paul Crowder
Mar 9, 2006
rating: 5.10b

The vintage photos that are posted on this page as of 3/9/06 are really entertaining. My opinion - although getting past the overhang is reasonably hard, I think that the crux is actually not too far off the ground, where my memory is that you have to do a thin face move in order to make your way up and right to establish a position underneath the overhang. This is a great route.

By Ivan Rezucha
Mar 9, 2006

The move onto the slab on the bottom is only 5.9, but scary, since the gear is mediocre and at your foot as you high step onto the slab using a one fingertip pocket. Someone had a bad accident cratering from this move about a year ago. That one-finger pocket didn't exist originally--there was a pebble where the pocket now is. The pebble loosened over time and eventually fell out or was pulled out (hopefully just with fingers).

A similar thing happened on the ceiling crux. There is now a nice 2 or 3 fingertip slot that you layback to reach the jug. That slot didn't exist originally. My good friend and regular partner Jeff Pofit excavated the debris from the slot in 1974 with his fingers as he was scrabbling for a decent hold.

By Ivan Rezucha
Oct 19, 2008

A nice variation at about 10a with decent pro goes left from the top of the corner above the crux and then straight up to the anchors. This avoids the scary 8 face move at the end of the regular route (which steps right out of the corner and then back left across an unprotected face).

By Micah M
Apr 19, 2009

We went to the top in 1 pitch but the 2nd two thirds was all gardening and corn flacks. Is there a good finish to this climb?

By Ivan Rezucha
Apr 20, 2009

There's a "direct" John Bragg 5.10 P2 that goes, I think, more or less straight up after the P1 anchors. I know it's up there somewhere, but I can't picture it. It's been a while...