A portion of Near Trapps has been closed to climbing MORE INFO >>>
A portion of the Near Trapps has been closed to climbing. This includes land below the cliff to above cliff line and starts approximately at Eenie Meenie and continues south about 200 feet. Climbers are asked to respect the no-trespassing signs and advised to use the access trail marked in orange blazes. This trail starts at the intersection of the Blue trail over the top of the Nears and the first Red trail. Follow the orange blazes east and downhill from this junction to arrive at the far (south) end of the Nears. For more information please view http://www.mohonkpreserve.org/index.php?news
Going over the ceiling on Birdcage. The last pro h...
Description
Bird Cage is a great climb on a great section of the cliff. It takes the most central, obvious line in the Birdland area -- which is identified by a huge left-facing corner. The face that makes up the right side of this dihedral is Birdland, the corner itself is Bird Cage.
P1: Ascend this corner at challenging 5.8. Once you get to the roof, place pro (usually a fixed wire here), traverse out right, and get horizontal. A long reach off an undercling/pinch to a jug will get you through it. Rap from a fixed anchor above.
When I led this route a year or two ago, there was no good anchor above the roof to rappel from. Recently, I led up the corner and traversed right to the Birdland anchor, skipping the dramatic roof moves. This was a really good pitch at about 5.9+ and allows for an easy descent. I think that it would also be possible to continue up the second pitch of Birdland from above the roof.
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