A portion of Near Trapps has been closed to climbing MORE INFO >>>
A portion of the Near Trapps has been closed to climbing. This includes land below the cliff to above cliff line and starts approximately at Eenie Meenie and continues south about 200 feet. Climbers are asked to respect the no-trespassing signs and advised to use the access trail marked in orange blazes. This trail starts at the intersection of the Blue trail over the top of the Nears and the first Red trail. Follow the orange blazes east and downhill from this junction to arrive at the far (south) end of the Nears. For more information please view http://www.mohonkpreserve.org/index.php?news
Mike Amato halfway up the second pitch. The crux n...
Description
A fun and varied route on the far left end of the Nears; well worth the walk.
Finding the start of this route can be tricky if you're not familiar with the area. Walk about 25-30 minutes along the base of the cliff until you're almost at the far left end. Look for a big pillar leaning against the cliff; this is the route Inside Out. Main Line starts about 60' right of this pillar, at a large, left-facing corner. If you reach Muriel's Nose, a large triangular overhang about 70' up the wall, you've gone too far.
P1: Climb the left-facing corner to a roof. Traverse right to a narrow ledge with a 2-bolt anchor with chains. 5.8, 100'.
P2: Climb straight up past a notch in an overhang (crux, hard-to-place pro), and angle up right through steep rock to the top. 5.8, 60'.
Descent: Rap 40' from slings on a tree back to the bolt-and-chain anchor atop the first pitch. From here, rap 90' to the ground.
Protection
Standard Rack. A medium hex is useful for pro low in the corner on the first pitch. The crux notch on the second pitch could be hard to protect unless you've got Ball Nuts or very small cams.
I've never had much problem with the pro on the 2nd pitch myself - the gear is all there if you can reach it and hang to put it in. A couple of small stoppers works fine for me. And you have good cams down at your feet so it's not too bad.
On the second pitch, it is possible to stick a 3 camalot or similar in the notch of the roof; it sets strangely but I think it would hold. If one does the first pitch crux by traversing left, be careful of the finger flake hold. It seems loose if you torque out on it. Great Climb!
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