A portion of Near Trapps has been closed to climbing MORE INFO >>>
A portion of the Near Trapps has been closed to climbing. This includes land below the cliff to above cliff line and starts approximately at Eenie Meenie and continues south about 200 feet. Climbers are asked to respect the no-trespassing signs and advised to use the access trail marked in orange blazes. This trail starts at the intersection of the Blue trail over the top of the Nears and the first Red trail. Follow the orange blazes east and downhill from this junction to arrive at the far (south) end of the Nears. For more information please view http://www.mohonkpreserve.org/index.php?news
An interesting route with several variations. It is often described in 2 pitches, but it's much simpler to climb to the clifftop in one pitch.
Start just right of Inverted Layback at a 6"-wide crack on the left wall of a big dihedral. This is about 55' left of Disneyland.
P1: Climb the face by the crack for 25' (V1). When the crack flares, traverse up and right to an arete. Move right and up (crux) to small stance and a tree (optional belay) in a clean dihedral. From here, climb up and right, turning an easy roof on the right, and continue to the top. 5.7, 120'.
V1: The climb can also be started on the right wall of the initial corner, bypassing the wide crack.
Descend by an easy stroll, climber's right, back to the base.
Protection
Standard Rack, with optional larger (3-4") pieces.
I agree. The belay is a pain with your second tied in below you since the corner is pretty narrow. Do it in one pitch. Also back up any fixed gear. The pins, if they are still there, were not good three years ago.
By Jim O'Brien Administrator From: Branford, CT May 4, 2009
Good 1st pitch- crux was not too bad, a quick nut placement calmed me down... The belay station sucked- bail here and belay your second from the ground or continue up the blocky dihedrial.
Climbed this in two pitches as a party of three yesterday. A large limb on the tree at the hanging belay broke when I was starting up P2. Although I don't think it compromised the integrity of the tree—as it's the base of the tree's trunk that's slung—it gave us a scare, and I'd caution anyone who intends to belay there to give it a thorough inspection before doing so, and consider backing it up with some gear (or better yet, take previous advice and do the climb in one pitch). We put in gear after the limb broke and were backed up on the manky chockstone to the right.
I climbed this in two pitches two days ago, and was able to backup the resident webbing (tree and fixed tricam) with three cams.
Everyone should try to listen to the advice Williams gives in his guidebooks and consider trees off-route. Breaking a limb off a tree can easily have negative consequences for it's life span down the road.
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