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Gelsa 

5.4

   

FA: Fritz Wiessner, Beckett Howorth, George Temple, 1942
Type: Trad
Consensus: 5.4 [details]
Length: 3 pitches, 195 feet
Views: 1,373 page views

Submitted By: Ron Olsen on Feb 23, 2006


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Mike Amato stemming up the third pitch.


Description 

Gelsa is THE classic 5.4 route in the Gunks. The third-pitch corner is steep, exposed, and fun! Don't pass this one up, even if you're climbing at a harder grade.

Start by a tree right next to the cliff, about 20' left of Fat City Direct, at a pile of boulders.

P1: Climb up to an overhang, traverse left to a ledge and belay by a tree. 5.3, 45'.

P2: Traverse left past an overhang, then back right to a crack and a face. Angle up left to a good ledge at the base of a huge, overhanging, right-facing corner. 5.4, 60'.

P3: The money pitch. Climb up right and follow the steep, exposed corner to the top. 5.4, 90'.


Protection 

Standard Rack. Pink and red Tricams are useful for the belay anchor at the end of the second pitch. A #3 Camalot is useful on the third pitch.



Add Photo Photos of Gelsa
Unknown climber leading P2

Unknown climber leading P2

Gelsa.  P1 is shorter than it looks, while P2 is longer than it looks.

BETA PHOTO: Gelsa. P1 is shorter than it looks, while P2 is l...

Damon Farnum on the P1 traverse.

Damon Farnum on the P1 traverse.

Climbing P2.

Climbing P2.

Looking back at the P2 belay.

Looking back at the P2 belay.

Looking down the third pitch.

Looking down the third pitch.


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By saxfiend
Administrator
From: Atlanta, GA
Mar 27, 2007
rating: 5.5

This is really an outstanding climb, one of my favorite Gunks leads. P3 is hard to beat for great exposure and plentiful pro. Definitely a must-do at the Gunks.

By Matt Amory
From: Boulder CO
May 18, 2007

One of my first leads and favorite memories to this day. It was pouring rain by the time we reached the P2 Crux. I led the 3rd pitch straight up a freakin' waterfall. The sensation of being up on top after such a wild ride was amazing...

By Jeremy
From: Boulder, CO
May 30, 2007

One of the least impressive "classics" at the gunks for me. It was OK, but most of the rock looked loose and spooky.

By Jeff Welch
From: Lakewood, CO
Sep 30, 2007

Agree with Jeremy - some of the rock quality on P3 did not excite me.

Also, I have had two friends now get lost on P1 of this route. You don't climb very high (20 feet?) before traversing directly left. There is a crack that continues up above where the traverse starts that can sucker you in, and it will definitely take you well off-route and into harder terrain. The picture in the Swain book is especially inaccurate, showing a left-diagonaling ascent when the climb really goes up, straight left, then up again to the base of the corner.

By James DeRoussel
Administrator
From: Tucson, AZ
Jun 24, 2008

This is a superb climb, perhaps the best in the grade...anywhere. Where else can you climb an overhanging 5.4?