A portion of Near Trapps has been closed to climbing MORE INFO >>>
A portion of the Near Trapps has been closed to climbing. This includes land below the cliff to above cliff line and starts approximately at Eenie Meenie and continues south about 200 feet. Climbers are asked to respect the no-trespassing signs and advised to use the access trail marked in orange blazes. This trail starts at the intersection of the Blue trail over the top of the Nears and the first Red trail. Follow the orange blazes east and downhill from this junction to arrive at the far (south) end of the Nears. For more information please view http://www.mohonkpreserve.org/index.php?news
Gelsa is THE classic 5.4 route in the Gunks. The third-pitch corner is steep, exposed, and fun! Don't pass this one up, even if you're climbing at a harder grade.
Start by a tree right next to the cliff, about 20' left of Fat City Direct, at a pile of boulders.
P1: Climb up to an overhang at ~20 ft, traverse left to a ledge and belay by a tree. 5.3, 45'.
P2: Continue traversing left past an overhang and into an alcove (you'll be just above the bolts for Roseland), then back up right to a crack and a face. Angle up left to a good ledge at the base of a huge, overhanging, right-facing corner. 5.4, 60'.
P3: The money pitch. Climb up right and up (or, up and right - either way works) and follow the steep, exposed corner to the top. 5.4, 90'.
Walk off to the right.
Protection
Standard Rack. Pink and red Tricams are useful for the belay anchor at the end of the second pitch. A #3 Camalot is useful on the third pitch.
By saxfiend Administrator From: Atlanta, GA Mar 27, 2007 rating: 5.5
This is really an outstanding climb, one of my favorite Gunks leads. P3 is hard to beat for great exposure and plentiful pro. Definitely a must-do at the Gunks.
One of my first leads and favorite memories to this day. It was pouring rain by the time we reached the P2 Crux. I led the 3rd pitch straight up a freakin' waterfall. The sensation of being up on top after such a wild ride was amazing...
Agree with Jeremy - some of the rock quality on P3 did not excite me.
Also, I have had two friends now get lost on P1 of this route. You don't climb very high (20 feet?) before traversing directly left. There is a crack that continues up above where the traverse starts that can sucker you in, and it will definitely take you well off-route and into harder terrain. The picture in the Swain book is especially inaccurate, showing a left-diagonaling ascent when the climb really goes up, straight left, then up again to the base of the corner.
By James DeRoussel Administrator From: Tucson, AZ Jun 24, 2008
This is a superb climb, perhaps the best in the grade...anywhere. Where else can you climb an overhanging 5.4?
By GMBurns From: Boston, MA Sep 4, 2008 rating: 5.4 PG13
An absolute must-do. A real classic with easy but airy and committing moves.
Couple of thoughts; 1) Going over the overhang at the start of p2 and angling left to the belay is a harder variation (5.6ish? PG)
2) I think P3 is the money pitch, but, it's sometimes tough to find good gear. That said, it's easy climbing so I just climbed until I could find a bomber placement.
Take care to extend your clifftop belay back towards the cliff edge - communication back to the 2nd belay can be difficult. Also, be careful of loose rock on top!
By proto From: Falmouth (MA) - Boulder (CO) Jun 2, 2009 rating: 5.4
I inadvertently did a 5.10R "variation" going strait to the first good ledge with a tree. Apparently not climbed very often ... Second pitch is incredibly steep for the grade but is really only 5.4
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