Gelsa is THE classic 5.4 route in the Gunks. The third-pitch corner is steep, exposed, and fun! Don't pass this one up, even if you're climbing at a harder grade.
Start by a tree right next to the cliff, about 20' left of Fat City Direct, at a pile of boulders.
P1: Climb up to an overhang, traverse left to a ledge and belay by a tree. 5.3, 45'.
P2: Traverse left past an overhang, then back right to a crack and a face. Angle up left to a good ledge at the base of a huge, overhanging, right-facing corner. 5.4, 60'.
P3: The money pitch. Climb up right and follow the steep, exposed corner to the top. 5.4, 90'.
Protection
Standard Rack. Pink and red Tricams are useful for the belay anchor at the end of the second pitch. A #3 Camalot is useful on the third pitch.
By saxfiend Administrator From: Atlanta, GA Mar 27, 2007 rating: 5.5
This is really an outstanding climb, one of my favorite Gunks leads. P3 is hard to beat for great exposure and plentiful pro. Definitely a must-do at the Gunks.
One of my first leads and favorite memories to this day. It was pouring rain by the time we reached the P2 Crux. I led the 3rd pitch straight up a freakin' waterfall. The sensation of being up on top after such a wild ride was amazing...
Agree with Jeremy - some of the rock quality on P3 did not excite me.
Also, I have had two friends now get lost on P1 of this route. You don't climb very high (20 feet?) before traversing directly left. There is a crack that continues up above where the traverse starts that can sucker you in, and it will definitely take you well off-route and into harder terrain. The picture in the Swain book is especially inaccurate, showing a left-diagonaling ascent when the climb really goes up, straight left, then up again to the base of the corner.
By James DeRoussel Administrator From: Tucson, AZ Jun 24, 2008
This is a superb climb, perhaps the best in the grade...anywhere. Where else can you climb an overhanging 5.4?
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