The Near Trapps

A portion of Near Trapps has been closed to climbing MORE INFO >>> A portion of the Near Trapps has been closed to climbing. This includes land below the cliff to above cliff line and starts approximately at Eenie Meenie and continues south about 200 feet. Climbers are asked to respect the no-trespassing signs and advised to use the access trail marked in orange blazes. This trail starts at the intersection of the Blue trail over the top of the Nears and the first Red trail. Follow the orange blazes east and downhill from this junction to arrive at the far (south) end of the Nears. For more information please view http://www.mohonkpreserve.org/index.php?news Keeping climbing areas open and conserving the climbing environment

Jean Aschenbrenner climbing the airy arete on the ...

Description 

Easy access, classic climbs, and easy descents make the Near Trapps a popular area at the Gunks, second only to The Trapps in climber visits. The cliff is 30' to 200' feet high, and sports almost 200 routes. The most popular area is the north end (closest to the parking lot), with many classic routes one after the other. The middle section of the cliff has loose rock and not many good climbs; be careful of rockfall in this area. More good climbs are found at the far (south) end of the cliff, a 20-to-30-minute hike from the parking lot.

To descend from climbs on the right end of the cliff, follow the cliff-top trail to the climber's right, circling around the cliff and back to the base by the route Kansas City. For climbs on the left end of the cliff, follow the cliff-top trail to the climber's left, and descend the gully at the end of the Near Trapps. Some climbs have rappel anchors which allow descent after one or two pitches without going all the way to the top of the cliff.

Some of the classic routes at the Near Trapps: Gelsa (5.4), Layback (5.5), Disneyland (5.6), Yellow Ridge (5.7), Birdland (5.8), Grand Central and Inverted Layback (5.9), Bird Cage, Criss-Cross Direct, Fat City Direct, Elder Cleavage Direct, and Transcontinental Nailway (5.10), and Kansas City (5.12).

Getting There 

From New Paltz, take Main St. (Rt. 299 West) to the T-junction with Rt. 44/55. Go right, up the hill. Pass the Mohonk Preserve Visitor's Center and continue past the hairpin turn up to the top of the hill.

Park at the "30-minute" lot on the left at the top of the hill, or continue past the steel bridge to the West Trapps lot on the right.

Walk along Rt. 44/55 to a point about 300' east of the steel bridge. The trailhead starts here, near the end of a guard rail. Follow the trail through the woods for about 5 minutes to reach the cliff near the route Kansas City. Continue along the trail, which extends all the way along the base of the cliff, to reach your route.

Guidebooks 

Dick Williams is working on a new guide to the Near Trapps, which should be out in 2007. For now, the best guides to the area are:

The Gunks Select, Dick Williams, Vulgarian Press, 1996. Contains the best routes at the Trapps, the Near Trapps, and Skytop. (Out of print).

The Gunks Guide, Third Edition, Todd Swain, Falcon Press, 1995. All-inclusive guide to The Trapps, the Near Trapps, Skytop, and Millbrook.

Shawangunks Rock Climbs: The Near Trapps and Millbrook, Dick Williams, The AAC Press, 1991. Part of the three-volume "brown Dick" set. Contains all the Near Trapps climbs, as does Swain's guide.

Check amazon.com and the New Paltz climbing shop Rock and Snow for these books.

The Classics

Featured Route For The Near Trapps

Disneyland 5.6  NY : The Gunks : The Near Trapps

The classic 5.6 route in the Nears. Short approach and very popular.Start about 30' left of Broken Sling, at a large corner capped by a roof. There is a big tree near the start of the climb.P1: Climb up the face, angling right, past several old fixed pins. Make an awkward move around the nose to a cramped belay. 5.6, 45'.P2: Move left and climb a steep corner to a roof, passing more old fixed pins. Traverse right under the roof, and continue...[more]   Browse More Classics in NY

Photos of The Near Trapps Slideshow

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At the 5.7 crux on the last pitch of Yellow Ridge....	The Near Trapps, from the Carriage Road at the Tra...	Near Trapps at night.
Moonset over the Nears	Don't recall the name of this climb... it's in the...	Same climb as the other picture - if anyone knows ...