Jean Aschenbrenner climbing the airy arete on the ...
Description
Easy access, classic climbs, and easy descents make the Near Trapps a popular area at the Gunks, second only to The Trapps in climber visits. The cliff is 30' to 200' feet high, and sports almost 200 routes. The most popular area is the north end (closest to the parking lot), with many classic routes one after the other. The middle section of the cliff has loose rock and not many good climbs; be careful of rockfall in this area. More good climbs are found at the far (south) end of the cliff, a 20-to-30-minute hike from the parking lot.
To descend from climbs on the right end of the cliff, follow the cliff-top trail to the climber's right, circling around the cliff and back to the base by the route Kansas City. For climbs on the left end of the cliff, follow the cliff-top trail to the climber's left, and descend the gully at the end of the Near Trapps. Some climbs have rappel anchors which allow descent after one or two pitches without going all the way to the top of the cliff.
From New Paltz, take Main St. (Rt. 299 West) to the T-junction with Rt. 44/55. Go right, up the hill. Pass the Mohonk Preserve Visitor's Center and continue past the hairpin turn up to the top of the hill.
Park at the "30-minute" lot on the left at the top of the hill, or continue past the steel bridge to the West Trapps lot on the right.
Walk along Rt. 44/55 to a point about 300' east of the steel bridge. The trailhead starts here, near the end of a guard rail. Follow the trail through the woods for about 5 minutes to reach the cliff near the route Kansas City. Continue along the trail, which extends all the way along the base of the cliff, to reach your route.
Guidebooks
Dick Williams is working on a new guide to the Near Trapps, which should be out in 2007. For now, the best guides to the area are:
The Gunks Select, Dick Williams, Vulgarian Press, 1996. Contains the best routes at the Trapps, the Near Trapps, and Skytop. (Out of print).
The Gunks Guide, Third Edition, Todd Swain, Falcon Press, 1995. All-inclusive guide to The Trapps, the Near Trapps, Skytop, and Millbrook.
Shawangunks Rock Climbs: The Near Trapps and Millbrook, Dick Williams, The AAC Press, 1991. Part of the three-volume "brown Dick" set. Contains all the Near Trapps climbs, as does Swain's guide.
Perhaps the best 5.7 in the Gunks.This climb is just a few minutes from the road - you'll pass Disneyland and a number of corners. Immediately after is the huge roof of Fat Stick. The route is easily recognized by the offwidth crack about 15' off the deck.P1: There are two ways to start. On the right is a left-facing corner leading up to a small roof - you traverse left under the roof to the offwidth crack (about 5.6). A more direct start ...[more]
The Near Trapps
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