While public climbing is still legally and enforceably prohibited at Sky Top, there will be LEGAL climbing at Sky Top available starting April 1, 2007. MORE INFO >>>
Alpine Endeavors has been contracted by the Mountain House to be the only guide service legally allowed to guide at Sky Top, and ONLY to overnight guests of the Mountain House. This might seem completely unfair, but it's their sandbox - so, it's their rules. If you want to legally climb at Sky Top, you have to be an overnight guest at the Mountain House AND be guided. Even if you're an overnight guest who is a fully-competent climber, you MUST still be guided. Guided rock climbing is not included in the price of your stay; look HERE and HERE for more information.
Apparently, plans are in the works to have security patrols stepped up to prevent unauthorized access to the area. There will also be other methods used to confirm and prevent unauthorized access.
Regardless, this is a huge step in the uphill battle to win public climbing access back. Due to this development, the guide book information will be put back up, and the population of the route DB is encouraged.
Extremely impressive for a route FA'ed in 1940. This route is a graveyard of very old pitons, most of which do not engender a warm, fuzzy feeling. The main crux is the transition from the crack to the face; as usual, it's probably easier if you're tall. There are some decent rests, though, if you can find a way to capitalize.
Location
15 feet right of the first vertical crack around the corner from the entrance to the Crevice, at some boulders below a crack.
Pitch 1: Climb up onto the boulders just right of the crack, step up left to teh crack, and follow it to a belay ledge/rap station to the left.
Pitch 2: Climb the outside corner to the top.
There is a new rappel anchor off a pine tree on the other side of the Crevice. One rope will reach the ground.
Protection
More than adequate, but bring some larger cams for the P1 belay area (Camalot 3.5, 4). Walk way back from top for an anchor, the area at the immediate top is barren.