While public climbing is still legally and enforceably prohibited at Sky Top, there will be LEGAL climbing at Sky Top available starting April 1, 2007. MORE INFO >>>
Alpine Endeavors has been contracted by the Mountain House to be the only guide service legally allowed to guide at Sky Top, and ONLY to overnight guests of the Mountain House. This might seem completely unfair, but it's their sandbox - so, it's their rules. If you want to legally climb at Sky Top, you have to be an overnight guest at the Mountain House AND be guided. Even if you're an overnight guest who is a fully-competent climber, you MUST still be guided. Guided rock climbing is not included in the price of your stay; look HERE and HERE for more information.
Apparently, plans are in the works to have security patrols stepped up to prevent unauthorized access to the area. There will also be other methods used to confirm and prevent unauthorized access.
Regardless, this is a huge step in the uphill battle to win public climbing access back. Due to this development, the guide book information will be put back up, and the population of the route DB is encouraged.
Fun moves, but the route is very overgrown and needs a good cleaning. With more traffic, this route will clean up well. The crux is up through the dihedral, and is above gear.
Location
Start at an open book that starts above the ground on the right side of an overhang, 15 feet left of Mary.
Pitch 1: Climb the open book and face above to a large ledge (60 feet). Watch out for the shrubbery growing in the dihedral.
Pitch 2: traverse slightly to the left to rappel, or step around right and finish on Mary (60 feet).
Rappel from the top; two raps with a single rope or one rap with a double rope. Rappel stations are new.
Protection
Acceptable. A little thin in the crux area, but it's there. Gear-only anchors.
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