Petey's Spare Rib 

FA:  Doug Kerr and Norton Smithe, 1952 Type:  Trad, TR Consensus:  5.5 [details] Length:  1 pitch, 120 feet Views: 224 page views Submitted By: Taino on Mar 26, 2007 Add Photo  Add Comment

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While public climbing is still legally and enforceably prohibited at Sky Top, there will be LEGAL climbing at Sky Top available starting April 1, 2007. MORE INFO >>> Alpine Endeavors has been contracted by the Mountain House to be the only guide service legally allowed to guide at Sky Top, and ONLY to overnight guests of the Mountain House. This might seem completely unfair, but it's their sandbox - so, it's their rules. If you want to legally climb at Sky Top, you have to be an overnight guest at the Mountain House AND be guided. Even if you're an overnight guest who is a fully-competent climber, you MUST still be guided. Guided rock climbing is not included in the price of your stay; look HERE and HERE for more information. Apparently, plans are in the works to have security patrols stepped up to prevent unauthorized access to the area. There will also be other methods used to confirm and prevent unauthorized access. Regardless, this is a huge step in the uphill battle to win public climbing access back. Due to this development, the guide book information will be put back up, and the population of the route DB is encouraged. Keeping climbing areas open and conserving the climbing environment

Description 

A wonderful route that zig-zags back and forth over an arete, with thin, facey moves and not too many of the classic Gunks jugs. I found the route rather sustained, but there is a very obvious crux section above gear. This route is not a good one for a 5.5 leader; it's devious, with questionable footholds and lots of smearing throughout. In the guidebook at 5.4 PG***, I'd give it a 5.5.

Protection 

Standard Gunks rack up to #3 Camalot. Pro is PG. There is a new rappel anchor at the very top - but you need two ropes to rappel off (route is 120 feet). Another rap anchor is to be installed half-way down, but might not yet have been placed.