While public climbing is still legally and enforceably prohibited at Sky Top, there will be LEGAL climbing at Sky Top available starting April 1, 2007. MORE INFO >>>
Alpine Endeavors has been contracted by the Mountain House to be the only guide service legally allowed to guide at Sky Top, and ONLY to overnight guests of the Mountain House. This might seem completely unfair, but it's their sandbox - so, it's their rules. If you want to legally climb at Sky Top, you have to be an overnight guest at the Mountain House AND be guided. Even if you're an overnight guest who is a fully-competent climber, you MUST still be guided. Guided rock climbing is not included in the price of your stay; look HERE and HERE for more information.
Apparently, plans are in the works to have security patrols stepped up to prevent unauthorized access to the area. There will also be other methods used to confirm and prevent unauthorized access.
Regardless, this is a huge step in the uphill battle to win public climbing access back. Due to this development, the guide book information will be put back up, and the population of the route DB is encouraged.
Sky Top is the long but relatively low cliff that sits immediately below the obvious Sky Top tower. There are some great climbs at this cliff -- the most famous of which are probably Foops (11+) and Supercrack (12c). Sky Top has more than 300 routes ranging in height from 50 to 150 feet.
Sky Top is property of the Mohonk Mountain House, and has been closed to climbers for some years now. From what I understand, the cliff was closed to climbing because the hotel owners didn't want their guests to be frightened by or disturbed by the riffraff. The debate rages about what the proper course of action is concerning this closure -- some hope that by not climbing there and negotiating peacefully, access may one day be restored. Others feel that since the Access Fund, and other groups and individuals, have failed to make any headway whatsoever in the past ten years, they never will, and climbers who want to climb there should do so at their own risk.
I've heard people say that the closure is truly a shame because it may be the best cliff at the Gunks. This is simply not true -- while there are some great climbs there, it doesn't compare in quality to The Trapps or Millbrook. You're better off investing your time in other areas, but if you do choose to climb there, be invisible and don't get caught. Rumors of people getting busted span the gamut from a slap on the wrist to confiscated racks and heavy fines. It certainly will not do good things for future access negotiations.
Due to lack of traffic, climbs can be overgrown (especially with lichen), and chalk-free. There is a hiking trail that runs along the base of the cliff and is frequented by the hotel guests and security staff.
Getting There
After leaving the NYS Thruway at Exit 18, turn left at the traffic light onto Route 299/Main Street. Follow Main Street through New Paltz. Immediately after crossing the bridge over the Wallkill River, turn right (follow "MOHONK" sign).
After 1/4 mile bear left at the fork and follow Mountain Rest Road and Mohonk signs to the Gatehouse. (NOTE: The Mohonk Gatehouse is located about six miles west of the Thruway Exit.)
You will be obliged to stop at the gatehouse. Then, follow the road leading off to your right to the Mountain House proper; be on the lookout for wildlife, and notice that they're VERY strict about the speed limit.
The Classics
Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Sky Top:
Sky Top has some really incredible routes at all grades. My own observation of climber interaction with hotel guests prior to closure of this crag is that climbers were typically polite, but occasionally really rude. And the hotel definitely didn't like to see scruffy climbers in their lobby, as the hotel positioned itself as a pretty upscale getaway for folks from NYC. It's a shame that the climbing community lost access to this crag, and I hope that we have a chance to see access restored in the future.
This area does not have "access issues." It is private property and the owner -- the Mountain House -- does not permit climbing. It is off limits, period. Do not climb there.
This is quite right - DON'T CLIMB AT SKY TOP! But there's a good reason to leave information about areas like this on the website. Climbers can't be allowed to just forget about classic climbing areas that become closed by the landowner. The more information out there about Sky Top the better. This information isn't to encourage climbing against the wishes of the landowner - it's to make sure the climbing community doesn't forget what a great place Sky Top was to climb. With guidebooks that cover Sky Top going out of print, it's important to make sure the information lives on.
So go ahead and add routes to the database - don't let everyone forget!
Print a Mini-Guide - Includes Routes!
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