Skink 

FA:  Mike Newman Type:  Trad, TR Consensus:  5.8- [details] Length:  1 pitch, 60 feet Views: 295 page views Submitted By: Taino on Dec 20, 2006 Add Photo  Add Comment

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BETA PHOTO: Skink

Description 

This is in the guidebook at 5.6, and is one of the biggest sandbags I've ever seen at that grade - IF you're under 5'9". If you're tall, it'll go perhaps 5.7. If you're short, it goes 5.8 easily. It took me two years to figure out, and the move I use isn't at all obvious.

Location 

On the flat wall (large, detached block) to left of Golden Dream/Slot Machine. Climb left-facing flake and face above. Can stand on top of flake and move right ~5' if needsbe. Climbing straight through (direct) without standing on flake is possible, but will go 5.9 if you're short, 5.8 if you're tall. Easy walk-off.

Protection 

G-PG pro, depending on which way you go up. Opening moves are TRES scary, with nasty fall; good idea to have spotter or crashpad. Double-bolted anchor at top.