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Moss Island
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Un-named 

5.12d R

   

FA: TR only
Type: Trad, TR
Consensus: 5.12d [details]
Views: 53 page views

Submitted By: James Otey on Sep 26, 2009


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Description 

The obvious severe overhanging face directly above the Duck Ramp. This would be an excellent V6 if it wasn't for the fifteen foot scramble to get to the base of it. Climb on horizontal crimp rails to the right of the arete, making a big move out left to a slopey jug (crux #1), get set up and make another desperate move out left to a three finger crimp (crux #2) and finally make a desperate crossover move to a slot jug that needs to be hit very precisely (crux #3). Out of the five moves on this classic 'bolter problem' three are pretty burly... Pretty heady on lead due both to the impending fall onto the ledge and the pure difficulty of the moves... A Little Falls classic for the hardmen.

I don't believe this has ever been freed on lead, please correct me if I'm wrong.


Location 

Directly above the Duck Ramp, left of Mr. Smiley and Goat Corner.


Protection 

A finger sized Alien/TCU at the second horizontal- the top requires a size large sack.