Chapel Pond Slabs 

FA:  Type:  Ice, Alpine Consensus:  WI2+ [details] Length:  4 pitches Views: 42 page views Submitted By: Jesse Morehouse on Jun 1, 2008 Add Photo  Add Comment

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Description 

Possibly the best route of this grade anywhere? The grade sounds kind of low but you are missing out on a great experience if you don't do it!

Just start climbing anywhere on this immense flow. Starting on the left seems best and don't worry if its thin down low, it gets thicker. The guide book warns of water pressure under the ice having blown out chunks towards the top- we didn't experience that but it would be crazy!

Walk off climbers left (one rap possible) or climbers right over buttress to a series of rappels (double rope then single rope) down to gully - this is possibly best if you are worried about snow conditions but then you probably shouldn't be climbing this slab then anyway...

Location 

Obvious monsterous slab of ice on left before Chapel Pond when approaching from East.

Protection 

Steady nerve down low, screws up high.