Snowy Mt

Mike--

I've been really interested in checking this place out. Are the routes really distinctive from one another and/or the rest of the Dacks? Or is it the setting, etc that sets this place apart from the rest of the Dacks? Thanks for posting!

The setting is great. If you like Big Slide Mt, then you get the idea. OTOH if a long approach detracts from the day's enjoyment, go elsewhere. The rock is unlike anything I've seen elsewhere in the Park (except for Vertebrae, as noted). I can't speak for Redneck, since we didn't get on that route. But it's located close to the others so I expect the book authors' comments are spot on for that one as well. The "draws only" aspect and total absence of crowds have appeal as well.

Chris -

Yes, the rock is unique for the park. Way more featured than anywhere else with pockets, plates, and ribs. This is the only place outside of the High Peaks with anorthosite, which tends to be more interesting than the gneiss found everywhere else. As mentioned, the setting adds to the appeal. A long approach, but that's also a good thing, keeping away the crouds and adding to the view. With respect to "draws only", don't forget the #4 Camalot if you want to do Redneck, the undeniable classic.

Just went down there on 8/31/09. As for the approach, if you get to the large open platform clearing, you've missed the climber's trail by several minutes. The view from these climbs might be the best in the entire Northeast (maybe even more dramatic than Big Slide). We were able to do all of the climbs on the face. Buckwheat can easily be done in one pitch with some long slings and unclipping some draws on the bolt ladder. If you only do one route, you MUST do Redneck on a Rope. It is phenomenal, one of the best I have done anywhere. A # 4 does protect the tricky move getting out of the OW but is too small for most of the crack. We moved L to R across the cliff, finishing with Vertebrae. 1st pitch will be heady if you are not really comfortable on slab, with injury potential if you fall due to the low angle (not death, but this would not be a good place to sprain an ankle - this further supports my belief that many of the gear ratings in the new book are incorrect and sometimes dangerous with all due respect to the authors). Second pitch was soaked and covered in thick moss (unlike the rest of the climbs) - would be excellent if dry and clean. We had to dig the bolt hangers out of the wet moss, but we topped out at the fire tower with our packs on and then just hiked down the DEC trail back to the road. Great day.

Nick - This is the second time today that I've heard criticism of the protection ratings in the Adirondack guidebook. However, we have not received any suggestions for changes in this area. Please -- if you find a protection rating you feel is inaccurate, let us know so we can fix them...especially if you think they are dangerous!

-Jim

jim@summsoft.com

Nick,

Other than Snowy Mt., what area's gear ratings are off, in your opinion? I would like to know, as well, so that I/we can have more efficient conversations with you re: specific routes, and make adjustments to the routes on the MP data base. Thanks!