Access is limited in the spring and summer due to peregrine falcon nesting; so there are some closures. Checking with the Adirondack Climbers Coalition or the NYDEC can provide the closure status.
Access is limited in the spring and summer due to peregrine falcon nesting; so there are some closures. Checking with the Adirondack Climbers Coalition or the NYDEC can provide the closure status.
Description
(I haven't heard of anyone doing the second pitch, so I've just described the increasingly popular 1st pitch.)
Start by either grappling with the awkward/slippery corner, or climb the face by bearhugging the arete and face holds. Gain the small, sloping ledge,make a few "heads up" moves to the left, accessing the right-facing corner, then take this, for about 70 feet, to the fixed anchor.
Enroute, you'll encounter some fairly loose and hollow sounding flakes. Take some precaution here, as some of these may be more brittle than you think!
Location
About 50 to 60 feet right of the bottomless, right-facing corner of Scallion is a left-facing corner that turns into a short slab, then a right-facing corner. This is the route.
Protection
A standard rack with a couple extra hand-sized pieces. A 70 meter rope juuuuuust makes it to the ground.
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